The night before Holi glows warm and golden under the Rajasthan sky. The courtyard of Rathore Palace is lit up with fairy lights, diyas flickering like tiny stars scattered across the marble floors. The air smells of sandalwood, ghee and the sweet scent of gujiyas being fried in the kitchen.

Holika Dahan has always been a grand affair in the Rathore family. Women in lehengas with bright dupattas move around, singing traditional folk songs. Children run past with sparklers in hand. The bonfire stands tall in the center of the open courtyard, decorated with cow dung cakes, wood and garlands of dried cowpea pods and sugarcane.